Frequently Asked Questions.
Okay these are questions that have been asked at least once.
I want to make a metal cutting system too. What would you have done differently? Are there ways that I could save time by buying OEM components?
Well there are some things that I would have done differently to be
sure, but I dont think it would mean that would have saved time. The
main reason is cost. There arent any systems that I know of that are
in my price range. Another way to say it is, most OEM solutions are
incredibly expensive.
Most of the mechanical parts of the system like the physical CNC
table, the chiller, the frame supporting the laser were very
easy. This is fun and not very time-consuming. Perhaps the biggest
technical hurdle was that I put my laser support system together using
a welder which some people may not have.
The optics were pretty much bolt-together parts and I dont think there
would have been much time to save there. There are some optics that
are specifically designed for the laser itself which would allow you
to just take the optics out of the box, connect to the system, and you
are ready to go. I was lucky to get my optics from ebay and other
sources for fairly cheap, but it was not an instant solution. I would
still go with the used parts solution again.
Electronics. Now, this was hard for me. You need to have motor
drivers, some laser controls, limit switches and emergency
stops. Putting this all togethe under one integrated system was a very
large amount of work. I dont know of a commercial system that works
for my laser, even an expensive one, so I had to make all that
circuitry myself. I used a lot of TTL logic, and to be certain I would
never do that again.
So one thing I definitely would do differently is this. I would use
microcontrollers. I would have liked to have all inputs and outputs of
electronic/electric connections going into a board handling TTL
signals, relays, and connections for external limit switches, and then
put the logic of the overall system together with microcontroller
software. On the other hand, if you want to save some time it would be
best to find an alternative to making the electronics your self.
House wiring. There was a lot of wiring I had to do myself, which was
fun but also a lot of work. You could definitely save time (not money)
to have someone else do that.
There are examples on ebay of complete laser cutters with enough power
to cut metal. They are very expensive, and also require wiring
ventilation and cooling pretty much similar to what it would be like
if you had a shop with a really large milling machine. But that still
might be a way to be cutting metal without taking a lot of your time.
So the short answer to your question is this: unless you want to spend
$50,000 I think you'd have to do most of it yourself.
Can I cut brass?
No. I cant either. The industry would love to cut brass and they aint
figured it out either. I gather it's a problem due to the heat
transmission of brass and copper. It spreads out its heat over the
area of the cut too effectively. If you cant concentrate the heat on a
particular area, the metal doesn't get obliterated. Steel is a lovely
and cooperative metal.
I have a glass laser that delivers 100 watts of power, can I cut steel too?
Probably not. Its really hard to tell what power my laser actually
delivers. The ambigiuity is because the product literature says that
they modulate the output. The laser sends out higher bursts of energy
that probably exceed 100 watts. The total delivery of power integrated
over time is 100 watts. But according to the manual, they claim that
by peaking the delivery over short bursts that it actually develops
intermittant delivery of 250 watts. I dont know if its really doing
that -- I do know that other lasers (e.g., YAG) also work on the
principle of quick bursts that deliver much higher power.
If you have a sealed glass laser, it delivers continuously, and it
doesn't do this burst trick that the Coherent does.
That's not to say you cant get some cutting power. Maybe you could cut
stuff that's 0.005 inches, or better.
The key, as you may very well know, is to think about your optics. If
you really want to explore the issue you have to read and understand:
http://www.nilno.com/laser_intro/optics.html
your goal is to get a tight beam, and a DOF that is thicker than the
object that you want to cut. If I was in your shoes one place I'd do
some research is to find out what power density is required to cut
metal. I was told over the phone by Coherent guy (hey better than an
incoherent one) that it is 10^6 watts/in^2 for steel.
But there's a chance that he's wrong. Once thing I know, is that I can
control my power output with electronics going to the laser. When I
take that down to 50% of the max, it still cuts, maybe not as well but
it still cuts. It suggests to me theres still hope for the glass tube
guys.
What else do I need to cut?
You must have a functioning cutting head, that delivers oxygen that
flows through the nozzle. You also need a cnc table running the part
around underneath the nozzle.
How much did it cost?
Its rude question but...total estimated cost is about $15k or so. The laser itself was $6500, I bought a cnc table for $500, and the optics were another $2500. A chiller from ebay cost me $500. There were lots of other incidental costs like a lot of electronics, motors, motor controllers, 220 volt wiring, cooling and ventilation. The biggest operational cost is oxygen. A tank of oxygen is $55 and can easily be used up in a weekend. The operational cost of electricity is negligible. The stainless is pretty cheap, around $1 a pound.
Then there's time. The project took 2 years, but if I had to do it again it could get done in about 6-12 months.
I was thinking earlier today about all these CNC machines when all
of a sudden I looked over at my printer and realised that with a few
modifications it might be made into a basic CNC.
I dont think this approach works. The problem is lateral thrust.
If your printer is buzzing along, try putting your hand in the way of
the movement, you'll see that even a bit of resistance will prevent
most of the electromechanical gizmos from moving. Now think about
instead of that printer head on a little gantry system, you've
substituted in a cutting tool like a small dremel.
You can imagine that you'd have problems with the printer mechanics
moving a cutting tool in wood, but you also have problems just with
forward inertia. If the heavy cutting tool is moving in one direction,
reversing that movement quickly will wont happen perfectly, it will
try to reverse, some belt or gear or stepper will slip a little. (If
you clamp your fingers on small steppers when they are moving, they
just stop.)
Since most systems of that kind lack feedback about the exact position
of the gantry after that slip happens you dont have a good
relationship between what the computer is treating as an x-y position,
and what's actually happening on the printer. this'll screw ya up.
but, some cutting tools offer little or resistance, like a laser beam
being moved around by flying optics, or really really really fast
cutting tools (like a high speed bit in a dental drill). so then all
you have to do is deal with the forward-reverse inertia problem. there
are other applications, like if you're spraying paint or something,
that would also have no resistance. also if you're cutting something
really soft. but be advised I used to have a balsa wood cutter and
there aint no way a printer could handle pushing a bit through that
with any accuracy.
so for cutting tools, you want to have something stronger than a
printer. be advised though, if you want to make something it just aint
that hard. there's steppers and pulleys and belts and drivers and
premade systems galore, just gotta make a little investment. search
ebay using the term "linear actuator" or "xy table" or "cnc table", at
least some of those searches will show something cheap.
the other way to think of it is go ahead and buy a plotter on ebay and
hack it up, they have all the parts in there. you either hack the
existing driver, or get a cheap motor driver board and connect the
motors to that. its incredibly instructive to see how a system
works. it wont handle moving a cutting tool but its still very
instructive. I started by getting a laboratory robot that moved around
small liquids, was really good for showing basic principles.
so it just boils down to how much lateral force a cutting tool needs,
and the forces involved when redirecting movement of the cutting
tool. my guess is that in most cases you could just clamp your finger
down on the motors that are moving your printer and you could stop the
movement. to be sure, the older printers and the larger format
plotters might have a chance. the other option would be to use the
mechanical parts from an old system and swap in bigger steppers.
Can your laser cut thru your finger. That'll leave a mark.
No. This laser cant cant cut through a whole finger. One reason is
that co2 lasers cant penetrate through water, which is what meat
mostly is made of. The other reason is because of divergence, the
power density of the beam drops off very very quickly as it leaves the
cutting nozzle. Its the molecular equivalent of shooting at a target
with a shotgun that's a mile away.
I have succeeded in cutting a disk of approximately 1/4 diameter off
the tip of my finger though. Hurts like heck but it cuts while
it cauterizes, so there's no bleeding.
|